Recent content by TheLondonBroiler

I generally can get anywhere between 40-100 miles in 55-60 degree weather, just depends if I'm averaging 70mph or 20mph on fairly level ground, so sure you can get 70 miles. A manufacturer can choose not to honor their warranty and you can choose to try to use the legal system to make them...

Only way you can verify dcfc without seeing the port: 1)Asking GM with the vin # ; 2 )Seeing the orange loom under the hood (high resolution pics at the right angles are necessary).

"Greg Goes Electric" on YouTube has done this with a LEAF into an old Mercedes, and apparently is doing a Spark EV into a MG, https://youtu.be/OAkb6DgqADE . I keep thinking this would be a good idea, but I would put the Spark's battery equipment into a bigger 350 volt architecture pack (ex...

https://youtu.be/Mnn7iWmbv7c https://www.harborfreight.com/trim-and-molding-tool-set-5-pc-64126.html Addendum: Plastics tend to break when flexed too much when cold. When I'm disassembling plastics, I make sure to do it at room temperature.

Very solid advice.

Understood. I am not making recommendations, but have you "reset" the 12 volt system? This process entails disconnecting the 12 volt battery, letting it sit for a period of time in this state, touching the two vehicle terminal connectors together, and reconnecting them to the battery.

Those are alignment dowels, only applicable to the original equipment. If I was installing speakers, I would cut them off flush (dude in the video simply bends them out of the way).

He stated it was a "definite improvement" and I have no doubt he's correct. The Spark EV was an experimental/test mule, which GM utilized their cheapest economy car body for the experiment. When cost cutting is the primary goal, expecting anything done better than bare minimum, is pretty much...

So I'm understanding correctly, you're not able to unlock the car (buttons don't work) nor can you start the car without the key in the slot? My theory that there are two separate modules the remote operates, is just that, a theory. I do have a decade plus background in electronics, so I...

Agree with Norton, wouldn't waste my time at the dealer. They're going to tell you to come back when you have a real warranty claim and maybe also that they believe degradation may not be linear..... Dude, trust me, I've got a Spark and Bolt, with the same degradation and a low range issue...

With all due respect, anyone buying a Spark EV over a Bolt EV, who is not on a REALLY tight budget, is a fool, or has very particular needs/tastes.

I believe my degradation has slowed only due to not driving it much. I lost ~0.3kwh in the last 18 months with probably 3,000 miles of driving. I like the Bolt a lot, it's a lot more refined, it's obviously bigger and has more features, compared to the Spark. The only things I dislike that I...

I think if you're expecting more than half a kilowatt, you're going to be disappointed. My Spark was reading 13.3kwh, but after taking it on a 1,500 mile trip over the course of a week, with dozens of fast charges, it was giving a reading of 13.7kwh. If degradation keeps the same rate of...

Found it. According to torque pro readings 0.8kwh was lost in a two week time frame. Keep in mind it was when it was getting cold.... just like now. https://www.mychevysparkev.com/forum/viewtopic.php?f=7&t=4464&p=22620#p22620

Turns out this thread title is extremely ironic.... assuming you don't own a Bolt.... especially one that has actually caught on fire, you might actually find this funny.