Aftermarket speakers?

[tehjosheh]

I made a YouTube how-to video on replacing stock speakers with aftermarket ones (same size, no dremmel cuts). Thanks ee241 for the recommendations:
https://youtu.be/dHNYuntv00c

 

[Planerench]

Thanks for the documentation of this project! I want to do this this year!

 

[zzzzzzzz]

I installed a Rockford Fosgate P300 powered sub 2 summers ago and can honestly say it's my favorite modification on the Spark. Nice to rock out and feel the sub on my daily 45 minute commute. Install was super easy; just tap power and pull line level inputs from the rear speakers. And it's slim enough to fit in the trunk, easily outshining any deficiencies/crappiness in the stock speakers.

 

[JPL]

Please upload a video!

 

[TheLondonBroiler]

Whelp, after realizing I had neither the time nor the expertise to do the job correctly, I bought some industrial-grade hook-and-loop fastener and took my little powered sub and Spark EV to Lombard's Stereo in Santa Maria and this is the result:

I figured since nobody can sit in the middle position anyway, that's a good place for the sub. No reduction in leg or foot room, practically invisible wires, and no holes drilled toward the traction battery! Those of you looking to mount an amp may want to consider this position as well.

I'm pretty happy with the result since I can now hear the bottom half of my tunes. One thing to be aware of is that the head unit doesn't have a discrete "power on" signal: it uses the GMLAN bus for that. So if your amp does, you'll either need to tie it to the ignition signal, or use a low-voltage trigger which lets it stay on any time the speakers are energized. I opted for the latter so I can still have bass without having the car on.

If I understand this correctly, this is mounted with "Industrial Strength" Velcro?!?! Please realize this is a big no no, a lethal projectile in the event of a crash. No Velcro (that I am aware of) and wires are going to keep a heavy object from going whatever direction force sends it, whenever the vehicle it is "installed" in, goes from <15mph to 0mph in an instant. I'm still MECP Advanced certified by the C.E.A., even though I haven't installed professionally since 2015 (I did 8.5 years big box install full-time), I'm not talking out of my arse.

On a different note, I want affirm what has already been stated/alluded to, there is no way a 4" , 4"x6" , or any speaker with a single voice coil, can produce a "decent" full range of sound. I really liked the pizza analogy someone used, where essentially some people are fine with a frozen red baron (any cheap speakers with limited range, that don't distort at moderate volume will do), some demand fresh organic brick oven pizza (separate high, mid, low speakers to help achieve high fidelity), and everyone else falls somewhere in between.

When I finally acquire a Spark EV (fingers crossed, test drove one, love it), I envision starting off my speaker changes with an old pair of 4" roadmaster two-way speakers (yes, this is most always a garbage "Wal-Mart" brand) that I acquired in a trade, which are amazing for what they are, and a pair of Pioneer TS-X series enclosed 3 ways, probably secure mounted (no velcro) under the driver and front passenger seat, firing backwards. This should achieve a decent range of sound, with little distortion at high volume levels.

Please understand (if you don't already) the law of diminishing returns certainly applies to car audio. If you will settle for nothing less than high fidelity, with high volume, professionally installed, you're well over four figure territory (in this case, you're probably not driving a Spark EV in the first place). On the opposite end of the spectrum, you probably want to stay clear of the flea market/no name stuff, unless you are 100% certain you know what you are getting. Anyone who is willing to give up a chunk of the little bit of rear cargo room that exists, for a decent slim 8 or 10" sub, likely won't be disappointed in the difference I know it will make in this car.

I've learned so much from this forum, and am grateful for everyone who has constructed and contributes to it, Thank you!

 

[MtnCowboy9]

I replaced the front and the rear speakers in my 2016 spark ev. with a nice set of polks. I was hoping for a much better sound. Unfortunately I found only a moderate improvement. But at least I can understand the DJ and Talk Radio. 3 inch in Front 4x6 Rear all 4ohm.

 

[JohnnyEv]

For those interested ,I made some 3D printable 4x6 adapters to put 5x7 speakers in the rear deck. (BTW, they are screw with no mods required so even if you lease you can undo this addition and put back to stock at the end of your lease.)

https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:2938980

To adapt your rear speakers from the 4x6 small ones and put a larger 5x7 in their place. Mirror for opposite side. Designed for Phoenix Gold SX57CX speakers (Great Speakers, worth the $$) . May want to reduce flange cut depth from 3mm to 1.5mm, Size is 200mm x 146mm x 31.75mm. Will fit on 165mm X 145mm bed if you use the split in half version and use 4x 1/8 diameter pins and epoxy parts together. Original solid works file included for customization. (see thingiverse link for files)

Also, the hardest part of running wires to the front of the car is removing the side rear airbag to run wires for the amp / remote / front speakers etc. Look them up on ebay (for pictures) and you can see where the loop is that "pops" in place. It takes ALOT of force to pop it up, but once you have it out of the way running the wires is pretty easy.

Johnny

 

[sTeeve]

For those interested ,I made some 3D printable 4x6 adapters to put 5x7 speakers in the rear deck. (BTW, they are screw with no mods required so even if you lease you can undo this addition and put back to stock at the end of your lease.)

https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:2938980

To adapt your rear speakers from the 4x6 small ones and put a larger 5x7 in their place. Mirror for opposite side. Designed for Phoenix Gold SX57CX speakers (Great Speakers, worth the $$) . May want to reduce flange cut depth from 3mm to 1.5mm, Size is 200mm x 146mm x 31.75mm. Will fit on 165mm X 145mm bed if you use the split in half version and use 4x 1/8 diameter pins and epoxy parts together. Original solid works file included for customization. (see thingiverse link for files)

Also, the hardest part of running wires to the front of the car is removing the side rear airbag to run wires for the amp / remote / front speakers etc. Look them up on ebay (for pictures) and you can see where the loop is that "pops" in place. It takes ALOT of force to pop it up, but once you have it out of the way running the wires is pretty easy.

Johnny

Nice!

 

[oldpueblo]

This thread has been great, I feel like I need to go back and read it a few times to get all the info. Has anyone been able to find out any official stats on the stock head unit? All it seems we know is that the front channels are 8 ohms, back are 4 ohms, and all stock speakers are stamped with 40 watts (RMS I assume). I'm debating between adding just a powered sub and back speakers, or replacing the front as well with a small amp that will run all four speakers at 4 ohms and a known/planned wattage. I don't know what frequency response the stock front speakers have either, does anyone have an idea?

Anyway, subwoofer placement. I don't want it anywhere that could get in the way of cargo, and I don't want to cut into the foam under the trunk because I want that charger to stay in there for emergencies (also I don't like permanent modding), so this is what I've come up with so far (thanks to earlier guy who gave me the idea). I would anchor it, which begs the next question... Does anyone think I could safely screw it in without puncturing any kind of battery area. It fits pretty well under the backs of the front seats, however we're a family with big feet and it gets in the way of that.

My sub:

An actual picture I found of a Spark EV cut open to reveal the contents:

 

[EBinStoon]

Have any of you who have installed 4 ohm speakers in the front noticed any issues? Warm head unit maybe?

 

[TheLondonBroiler]

Factory radios will do 4-8 ohms, no problem. Infinity makes some 2 ohm speakers (that read 3 on a meter), and they're usually no problem either. It wasn't uncommon in the past for GM to use 10 ohm speakers.

I don't think you'll have any problem at all, unless you decide to take the radio out to see if the amplifier is hot. Taking the radio out is a PITA.

Just remembered, I'm running non factory, 4 ohm, front speakers, and have been for 4 months. Zero issues, but then again, I'm mostly listening to podcasts..... at less than halfway (under 20).

 

[EBinStoon]

Factory radios will do 4-8 ohms, no problem. Infinity makes some 2 ohm speakers (that read 3 on a meter), and they're usually no problem either. It wasn't uncommon in the past for GM to use 10 ohm speakers.

I don't think you'll have any problem at all, unless you decide to take the radio out to see if the amplifier is hot. Taking the radio out is a PITA.

Just remembered, I'm running non factory, 4 ohm, front speakers, and have been for 4 months. Zero issues, but then again, I'm mostly listening to podcasts..... at less than halfway (under 20).

Great. Thanks for the reply.

 

[user 1323]

I installed the front Alpine 4-ohm speakers referenced earlier in the thread and they sound great. I ended up just moving the balance to the rear some and left the stock speakers in the back. They produce decent enough low end for me with some EQ tweaking. I don't think the speakers or the stereo are struggling with warming or any issues... I guess it depends on how much you blast the volume. For me the two fronts is the absolute minimum necessary improvement, but it got me most of what I wanted, and for only ~$50.

I hope to 3d print the 5x7 brackets later on and put alpines in the back also, when I can splurge a bit.

 

[SparkieV]

If anyone is looking for an even more affordable way to give the audio a boost, I have been pretty happy with my (cheap) setup. I used "bassblocker" capacitors on the front and rear speakers to reduce distortion and installed a small 8 inch powered subwoofer in a cast aluminum enclosure from Rockville Audio. The powered sub was $90 brand new including installation kit direct from the company. Picked up an add-a-fuse harness and some heat-shrink tubing and had everything I needed for the install. Modified the foam in the trunk with my Dremel to house the setup without using any cargo space and staying hidden. Did the whole thing for about $130 including shipping and sounds pretty good!

 

[NORTON]

.... installed a small 8 inch powered subwoofer in a cast aluminum enclosure from Rockville Audio. .... Modified the foam in the trunk with my Dremel to house the setup without using any cargo space and staying hidden. Did the whole thing for about $130 including shipping and sounds pretty good!

Sounds like a great way to get 'LOW', but how does it sound without a direct path for the speaker to shake the air in the cabin?
What value of caps did you use?
There are signal generator/ Real Time analyzer apps, some with a dedicated mic. The transition from sub to main speaker and having a close to flat curve is important to me and not just the 'Thump'.

 

[JeremyWinter]

Just finished my setup with

Front: Hertz Dieci DCX 100.3 4" 2-way Speakers 4 ohm (stock are 8 ohm)
Rear: HERTZ HCX 165 6.5" 2-Way Hi-Energy Coaxial Speakers HCX165
Rear: Bbox 6.5PR Speaker Enclosure - Pair - 6 1/2"
Amp: Rockford Fosgate PM100X1K Punch Marine 100 Watt Full-Range Mono Amplifier (very cool for EV's)

Cons:
Expensive for a good sounding system that still lacks that full component with sub sound.
Not a lot of low end bass. My stock 2002 lexus IS300 has better bass, but less mid and highs clarity.

Pros:
No modifications to stock system, can unplug adapters and be stock immediately. (resale value)
Front speakers are fine at 4 ohms, sound good.
System is loud, mids are powerful.
No tapping into 12v system. The PM100X1K system draws power from the head unit and stores it in a battery which then sends 60-70 watts RMS to the speakers. Cool tech that will not draw from the Spark EV main battery.

Maybe I should have gone with the Hertz 6X9's and got better low end response. I'm happy overall as it's night and day compared to the stock system. I installed the front speakers and was immediately happy with the results. Next I put the 6.5" speakers into boxes and plugged in off stock head unit power. I was immediately disappointed, but not surprised. Tinny mids, absolutely no lows and these speakers can pound.

Did some research and found the Rockford Fosgate Pm100x1's and although was skeptical at first, decided to give them a try.

They work. Getting 70 watts out of them and that's just drawing off the power of the stock head unit. Really a marvel of technology in my opinion. By utilizing all of the power that the head unit sends, which is usually lost and sent to ground because the speaker doesn't use it, the amps are able to send 60 watts plus RMS to the speakers.

Won't replace a sub wired into the 12v system, but sounds way better than not.

 

[NORTON]

"Front: Hertz Dieci DCX 100.3 4" 2-way Speakers 4 ohm (stock are 8 ohm)"

Did you use the stock speaker enclosures or are they just 'Free Air' mounted?

Are they louder due to the 4 ohm? Could this harm the head unit at high power levels?

 

[JeremyWinter]

Did you use the stock speaker enclosures or are they just 'Free Air' mounted?

They are free air mounted. Let's be honest, these are tweeters with 4 inches of rubber for aesthetics. Adding a baffle makes a unnatural sound in my opinion, as did the original stock speaker enclosure.

Are they louder due to the 4 ohm?

I would say yes a bit, maybe, nothing drastic.

Could this harm the head unit at high power levels?

Doubtful. Everyone else on here seems to be fine running them.

Other factors, the non EV spark calls for 4 ohm speakers, most likely uses the same amp. The backs are 4 ohm and producing a amp that handles 8 ohms on 2 channels and 4 ohms on the other 2 would be very odd engineering. Why would you do that? Design a new amp for the EV just to make it have 8 ohm front speakers instead of 4 ohm?

None of these scenarios makes (especially cheap) engineering sense to me. Really we need a service manual or service tech to answer these questions, but in absent of those, I'm going to assume that the GM engineers have some common sense when designing.

 

[JPL]

Holy cow the Rockford Fosgate PM100X1K cost almost $800 bucks here!

I also installed the following:

Front: Alpine 4" Type-S Coaxial Car Speakers (SPS410)

Back : Alpine 5X7" Type S Coaxial 2-Way Car Speakers (SPS517)

I used a 3D printed adaptor for the back speakers

 

[JeremyWinter]

Wow $800, that's ~$540 in USD. Here you can get them for $200 USD on Amazon or Crutchfield. They are expensive even at $200 in my opinion, so really can't recommend at that price.

Have a friend in Bellingham?