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h71

Member
Joined
Dec 23, 2024
Messages
19
Location
Dayton, Ohio
Cruise set at 55, going up a small incline, 39 miles on the gom, yellow "!" lit up, followed by reduced power, then complete loss of power. Gom freaked out, reverted to full battery status and miles went to 3.. It's not the 12v. Disconnected 12v and letting it sit overnight, I'll try again tomorrow to charge it, but I already know...😢
 

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Sounds like a couple weak cells. You can clear the stored codes with the VCX Nano or an OBD scan tool with bidirectional control. That sort of sustained load cruising uphill is when they show up. With a Bluetooth OBD tool and Torque you can watch the individual cell voltages and see which ones are sagging under acceleration and the highest voltage while charging. My cells 80 and 81 are the worst. 16 and 49 aren't great either. My issues started at the end of summer, and I'm still commuting 30 miles a day, even in winter. In warmer weather I was still driving it further away and fast charging it, I just treated 20% as 0.
 
Cruise set at 55, going up a small incline, 39 miles on the gom, yellow "!" lit up, followed by reduced power, then complete loss of power. Gom freaked out, reverted to full battery status and miles went to 3.. It's not the 12v. Disconnected 12v and letting it sit overnight, I'll try again tomorrow to charge it, but I already know...😢
I am going through the same thing with my mom’s spark. Were you able to find a solution? 😭
 
I am going through the same thing with my mom’s spark. Were you able to find a solution? 😭
I haven't had a chance, Sparky went down last night. When it warms up a bit more outside I'll head out and connect the 12v battery and see if that reset anything. From what I have read from both Randy and other member posts the car likely has a bad cell or two that have fallen out of voltage with the rest of the pack cells and the pack has shut itself down as a result.
 
This thread is from when I first had this issue, and I optimistically thought the 12v was the root cause.

Thread 'Died while driving due to 12v battery' https://www.mychevysparkev.com/threads/died-while-driving-due-to-12v-battery.9544/

This is when I upgraded my scan tool.

Post in thread 'My 2016 mod thread' https://www.mychevysparkev.com/threads/my-2016-mod-thread.9545/post-29872
Thanks! I had a dealer do the official battery pack test last year before the battery warranty expired, which was 10 months back, they came back with 23% capacity loss, after using it for driving this winter it looks to be the end. With the pack crapping out with 2 bars over half and 39 miles on the gom, even if it can be un-bricked, that means this car is only capable 20 miles of range, it's 17 miles to work, add in heat or ac and the fact that charging there is impossible and this is the end for Sparky, it's too expensive to maintain tags and insurance for it to only be able to go around the neighborhood.😢
 
Thanks! I had a dealer do the official battery pack test last year before the battery warranty expired, which was 10 months back, they came back with 23% capacity loss, after using it for driving this winter it looks to be the end. With the pack crapping out with 2 bars over half and 39 miles on the gom, even if it can be un-bricked, that means this car is only capable 20 miles of range, it's 17 miles to work, add in heat or ac and the fact that charging there is impossible and this is the end for Sparky, it's too expensive to maintain tags and insurance for it to only be able to go around the neighborhood.😢
The BMS is very unfriendly to drivers when it manages weak cells. It forces you to have dealer interactions which have tended towards buyback (usually under warranty) or whole battery replacements for an extremely unsustainable price point. Replacing 1 out of the 6 modules isn't a supported procedure for the dealer (3rd party only) and GMs part catalog has no module level searchable part numbers because that's not how they envisioned these cars would be supported...

I don't know if you have much experience pulling power out of with weak lithium cells, but it's often overlooked that in addition to the capacity loss, the ability to extract power quickly drops as well, which Randy pointed out drivers find out usually up hills and at or below 20-25%.

There are certain rules we've come up with to deal with the BMS's watchdog, which is what is killing off Sparks. That is the HPCM2 which the BMS reports this very specific event, and the HPCM2 maintains a hard to clear "do not resuscitate" error code. Did cells go through some irreversible damage? No. Is it dangerous to use again? No. Is it meant to be a nuisance? Absolutely.

A guide to avoid bricking your car due to weak cell freakout:

After losing your 3rd bar, as a driver, maintain a power limit on your cells. If you have 77% capacity remaining on 18.2kWh new packs, 1C (1x capacity) is about 14kW on the dash. This ensures maximum energy efficiency so slow chemistries can keep up and deliver power at their highest cell voltage, and at low states of charge (25% and lower). Throttling power ensures the individual cells are working above the watchdog's 2.5V freakout zone.
Outside of this range, it's safe to use more power, but be wary of how long you do it for because the chemistry will become tired and the voltage will sag, and usable energy will reduce for that discharge cycle.

Does that make sense? High efficiency is below 1-2C. Higher for the Spark EVs high discharge pouch type cells it should be 3-4C but weaker cells have lost the ability to discharge without dipping into low voltages that scare the sensitive watchdog computers. The degraded capacity can be fully extracted if drivers respect their limits.

You don't need to avoid driving under 20% but you should keep advanced scan tools on you and you should take care to work with these electrochemical cells. I'm sure the Bolt experiences this too, but they have 50-60kWh of capacity, so low power discharges are rather trivial.
 
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Thanks for the info, I don't have any diagnostic equipment past the torque pro app, which I still don't understand how to use, or how or where to get the bolt pid file. These app style scanners make absolutely no sense to me as I can't just dive into modules like a pro scan tool.

I have seen the mentions of resetting or clearing the hpmc2 unit but have no idea how to access it, what programs/permissions are required or anything else.
 
So is this just something that happens to all Sparks at some point in time? If so, that sucks
There's about a dozen reports of battery failures that fit this description, at least that I've come across on this forum. There's something like 7500 Spark EVs, and I really wish we had like a registry or something to see how many are still on the road. I can't tell from our small sample size if this is how they all eventually fail, or if only a percentage of them fail and this is how it seems to happen.
 
Wasn't able to mess around with the car today as I got lost in finding out about vcx nano and what would be needed to get one and set it up for the car, looking into picking up a used unit from marketplace. I found my old phone still had the torque pro app still installed with the bolt pids from when the car was purchased a few years back, will check out the cell voltages tomorrow and follow up!
 
Scanned with torque pro, I can't see any seriously low cells except for this group in the 40's (48-3.44v, 49-3.22), nothing like the 2.8v lows seen in other posts, however it's worth guessing that they may have gone below that when the error was first reported and have balanced out a bit from the other cells in the two days since the car was towed back..... Obd2 codes are:

-P0AFA OBD-II: Hybrid Battery System Voltage Low​

-P1E00- Command to engage check engine light, or the yellow "!"

-P0A7F OBD-II: Hybrid Battery Pack Deterioration​

 

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I haven't had a chance, Sparky went down last night. When it warms up a bit more outside I'll head out and connect the 12v battery and see if that reset anything. From what I have read from both Randy and other member posts the car likely has a bad cell or two that have fallen out of voltage with the rest of the pack cells and the pack has shut itself down as a result.
Thanks for the response. After lots of looking through these posts and messages with super helpful Randy, I’m waiting for my Autel scanner to arrive so I can try reset/clear any codes and crossing fingers, be able to charge again. Good luck with yours 🤞🏻
 
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