Considering giving up my lease to purchase

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sparkyps said:
There is nothing "more cost effective" about a lease. You can get very low interest rates on a purchase as well, and your interest rate isn't convoluted to figure out as it is with a lease. The residual value is generally computed conservatively so people who turn in their car at the end of the lease end up losing out on the excess of vehicle value to residual value, that's not cost effective.

I look at total cost of ownership compared to my previous gas vehicle. I was paying around $70-80 a week filling up my car, which is more than what I currently pay to lease my Spark EV plus electricity. Including insurance, it becomes about the same cost, but I get a new car, HOV lane access (the time savings alone for me is worth it), plus that $2500 rebate from CA (and I got the free charger and installation too). I also put less wear and tear on my gas vehicle so maintenance costs are lower. If the leases weren't so low, I wouldn't be driving this car, as I would be paying easily $100 more a month to finance (hence the lease being "more cost effective"). I am driving this car while waiting for new technology, why pay for the whole car when I can just pay for the part I'm using, and be able to just turn it in when I'm done with it?

The US Bank lease is at 1.44% interest. It would be very hard to match that on a finance (0% is usually from the manufacturer, 2.9% is the lowest from GM at the moment), plus you're only paying interest on vehicle depreciation and not the whole vehicle so there is more savings. As for residual value, manufacturers frequently set a artificially high residual to incentivize leases. I have no idea what the car will be worth on the open market at the end of 3 years, but I am OK with the value that they set and would rather lock in my payments versus potentially being upside down on trade-in.

Again, it depends on whether or not you plan to keep the car long-term. I do not, so leasing definitely makes more sense for me.
 
sparkyps said:
There is nothing "more cost effective" about a lease. You can get very low interest rates on a purchase as well, and your interest rate isn't convoluted to figure out as it is with a lease. The residual value is generally computed conservatively so people who turn in their car at the end of the lease end up losing out on the excess of vehicle value to residual value, that's not cost effective.

I look at total cost of ownership compared to my previous gas vehicle. I was paying around $70-80 a week filling up my car, which is more than what I currently pay to lease my Spark EV plus electricity. Including insurance, it becomes about the same cost, but I get a new car, HOV lane access (the time savings alone for me is worth it), plus that $2500 rebate from CA (and I got the free charger and installation too). I also put less wear and tear on my gas vehicle so maintenance costs are lower. If the leases weren't so low, I wouldn't be driving this car, as I would be paying easily $100 more a month to finance (hence the lease being "more cost effective"). I am driving this car while waiting for new technology, why pay for the whole car when I can just pay for the part I'm using, and be able to just turn it in when I'm done with it?

The US Bank lease is at 1.44% interest. It would be very hard to match that on a finance (0% is usually from the manufacturer, 2.9% is the lowest from GM at the moment), plus you're only paying interest on vehicle depreciation and not the whole vehicle so there is more savings. As for residual value, manufacturers frequently set a artificially high residual to incentivize leases. I have no idea what the car will be worth on the open market at the end of 3 years, but I am OK with the value that they set and would rather lock in my payments versus potentially being upside down on trade-in.

Again, it depends on whether or not you plan to keep the car long-term. I do not, so leasing definitely makes more sense for me.
 
sparkyps said:
GeorgeChevy said:
However, you get to take advantage of a low interest rate with the lease, and you have the option to just return the car at lease end.

This is my personal opinion but I would rather pay mileage overage than buy the car outright, as I can calculate exactly how much I would owe versus the unknown of resale value in the future (with extra mileage vs other off lease Spark EVs). However, I also have a 2nd car so I can just drive that if I am going over on mileage.

I can see a purchase making sense if you are going to drive it to the end of its usable life but otherwise the lease is just more cost effective and gives more options for most people.

There is nothing "more cost effective" about a lease. You can get very low interest rates on a purchase as well, and your interest rate isn't convoluted to figure out as it is with a lease. The residual value is generally computed conservatively so people who turn in their car at the end of the lease end up losing out on the excess of vehicle value to residual value, that's not cost effective.

The uncertain resale value of EVs, particularly when you are really competing with new - $7500 tax credit is the primary reason to lease instead of purchase.

I look at total cost of ownership compared to my previous gas vehicle. I was paying around $70-80 a week filling up my car, which is more than what I currently pay to lease my Spark EV plus electricity. Including insurance, it becomes about the same cost, but I get a new car, HOV lane access (the time savings alone for me is worth it), plus that $2500 rebate from CA (and I got the free charger and installation too). I also put less wear and tear on my gas vehicle so maintenance costs are lower. If the leases weren't so low, I wouldn't be driving this car, as I would be paying easily $100 more a month to finance (hence the lease being "more cost effective"). I am driving this car while waiting for new technology, why pay for the whole car when I can just pay for the part I'm using, and be able to just turn it in when I'm done with it?

The US Bank lease is at 1.44% interest. It would be very hard to match that on a finance (0% is usually from the manufacturer, 2.9% is the lowest from GM at the moment), plus you're only paying interest on vehicle depreciation and not the whole vehicle so there is more savings. As for residual value, manufacturers frequently set a artificially high residual to incentivize leases. I have no idea what the car will be worth on the open market at the end of 3 years, but I am OK with the value that they set and would rather lock in my payments versus potentially being upside down on trade-in.

Again, it depends on whether or not you plan to keep the car long-term. I do not, so leasing definitely makes more sense for me.
 
I agree that the current incentives provide an excellent deal for those wanting a new car in 3 years.

When I purchased last month, the dealership was able to offer 1.69% for 5 years with 0 down, which my credit union matched. I don't like to change cars that often and have historically have kept them for 10 - 15 years so purchase makes more sense for me. I do expect either the cost to come down or the range to increase in 3 years, but even so, the Spark meets 95% of my needs now, and will likely still meet 95% of my needs in 10 years. There is also a great deal of satisfaction in being able to modify whatever I want, whenever I want. :D
 
I'm kind omf curious, it says in my Ally contract that at the end of the lease, I may have a mutually agreed upon appraiser asssess the value of the car. Now, if the vehicle is worth much less than the residual, I may be able to negotiate with Ally to buy-out at a much lower price. If this senario plays out, then it works out almost the same to buy at the end of the lease than to buy it outright to begin with.
 
xylhim said:
I'm kind omf curious, it says in my Ally contract that at the end of the lease, I may have a mutually agreed upon appraiser asssess the value of the car. Now, if the vehicle is worth much less than the residual, I may be able to negotiate with Ally to buy-out at a much lower price. If this scenario plays out, then it works out almost the same to buy at the end of the lease than to buy it outright to begin with.

Yeah, this is exactly what I was thinking. For me, buying is like forced-savings. If I lease a car at $262/mo for 35 months with $500 down, (a current quote I got - not to say it's the best deal, but it's not too bad), that's a total cost of $9,670 and a residual of $16,423. But factor in the $2,500 from California, and we're looking at $7,170...

This same car on a buy, with 2.5% interest, $10,000 back from fed/CA, on a 36 month loan would be about $20,000 out of pocket in 3 years, including tax and license fees. So, I'm putting out $20,000, but in the end, I have a car supposedly worth $16,423. Looking at a 3 year old (2012) Leaf, I see it's between $14,000 and almost $16,000. New, after incentives, this car would have been... what...? $25,000? So that's about 56-60% of new after 3 years. So, one could expect that the Spark EV could be in the same ballpark, or about $11,000-12,000 for a 3 year old, probably worst-case. Especially if the Republicans gut everything and remove the incentives. Very worst case, the car is worth $10,000 on a trade in - towards a new, $30,000 car, (after incentives, if they still exist), like the Bolt.

If I can negotiate on the lease when I got to trade it in, I might get them down to $12,000, if that's the blue book on it. Add that to the $7,170 I've put out, and we're almost at the same $20,000 I would have spent on a purchase. I would have a lot lower payments for the next 3 years than on a brand new Tesla or Bolt, but, I wouldn't have the range. Buying a Spark now means I'd be trading in to buy or lease a $28,000 Bolt, after incentives, or $18,000-20,000 loan. $8,000-10,000 more than the used Spark, after my trade-in, but I get this shiny new car. Downside is I have a $580 car payment for 6 years - but in the end, I have a Tesla or a Bolt, and not a Spark. And, I'll have put out $38,000-40,000 for the Bolt or Tesla, versus $20,000-24,000 for the Spark, depending on if I can get them down on the residual. So, it's like buying a Bolt 3 years from now, without any incentives, but getting to drive around a fun car during the 3 years leading up to it for the same price as buying it 3 years from now on a 3 year loan.

Buying the Spark on a 3 yr lease then 3 yr loan means I own the car for $20,000-24,000, with payments of $200/mo for 3 years, then $350-460/mo for 3 years, ($12,000-16,000 residual), roughly, versus a steady 6-yr loan payment of $580/mo for the Spark-then-Bolt/Tesla.

Lastly, if you lease a Spark and turn it in to buy a Bolt/Tesla on a 3 year loan, you'll have put out almost the same for the Spark buy then Bolt buy - but your payments would be $200/mo the Spark then $865/mo for the Bolt...

To me, I think if you're committed to an EV and want one now, and you also want the next gen EV with more range, buying makes a little more sense - if you can afford the payments. If not, you'll lease forever and always have the latest and greatest, but will never own your car. (I did that for 20 years, and always had nice cars) Leasing then buying is just too brutal a payment for the last 3 years, and sure, you can go 6 years to get the payment down, but... that's a long time to be making payments.

It's always a tough decision, but, I honestly think buying is a better way to go in the long run. It forces you to average your payments out. And, who knows what leases or interest rates or incentives will be like 3 years down the road.
 
Just an FYI. I have always bought.
5 year terms, but paid it off in about 2 or 2-1/2 years anyway. Just made extra payments and put my tax refund to good use ;)

Just a thought for those thinking smaller payments
 
Funny, I woke up thinking the same thing. :) Though I'm thinking 6 years, which would be about a $300/mo payment and a balance of $12,500 at the end of 3 years. So, that would be $4,000 less than the residual on the lease I'm looking at. Intimating that the car should easily trade in for at least $12,500 or sell for that or possibly a little more privately.

If I can get my landlady to let me put in 240v outlet, this is going to be how I finance this car.
 
ezryder said:
If I can get my landlady to let me put in 240v outlet, this is going to be how I finance this car.

I just have a regular 110 outlet that my LL put in for my Diesel. I don't plan on putting in a 240 as I know it will not be able to be done at my rental.
I am usually home at 6pm so I would just plug in then. It isn't worth it here to do the Time/rate thingy you all have in CA. It is actually cheaper to just do regular electric when you count in the fees and extra per month fee.

If I need to do a fast charge I would just pay for it.
This would be a daily work drive 8-20 miles each way (depending on the office I am going to).


Are there any Fast chargers you can do near you ?
 
Well, the nearest fast charger is not nearby. I have to use SAE, right?

I'll try twisting her arm some more.
 
Purchasing is out of the question for me.

2950 Down
68.23 after tax per month
10K miles/year

$2500 back from CA

making it essentially 2838.05 for the 30K miles and 3 years.

This is cheaper than gas cost itself to drive my current car (Civic Si Sedan) the same 30K even with cheaper gas. Not to mention the oil change and other crap I need to do with my gas car.

Residue is 16K. There is NO way I am paying that 16K at the end of the 30K miles even if wanted to keep the car. Technology, like everyone is saying, will be much better and my car will definitely not be worth 16K. I am getting a good deal, 16K + tax + 3K, but it is still not worth it.

I say, drive the car to the lease mileage and STOP driving it. Then BUY the electric car you want then. Report to the Insurance that you will not add any more miles to the lease car. This is the best way you come out positive if you cannot find someone to assume the lease without giving up much.
 
tigger19687 said:
ezryder said:
If I can get my landlady to let me put in 240v outlet, this is going to be how I finance this car.

I just have a regular 110 outlet that my LL put in for my Diesel. I don't plan on putting in a 240 as I know it will not be able to be done at my rental.
I am usually home at 6pm so I would just plug in then. It isn't worth it here to do the Time/rate thingy you all have in CA. It is actually cheaper to just do regular electric when you count in the fees and extra per month fee.

If I need to do a fast charge I would just pay for it.
This would be a daily work drive 8-20 miles each way (depending on the office I am going to).


Are there any Fast chargers you can do near you ?

even if you don't plan to put in 240V, just take advantage of the $500 rebate for the charger because worst case, you can sell the thing for more than what you paid for it.

IF you are worried about cost, get the cheapest ($449) and get the thing free + shipping and sell for higher price. But make sure you can find someone willing to buy. : )
 
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