Door Unlocks then Immediately Locks Automatically

[LoveMy2014SparkEV]

I am writing this mainly to help someone in the future who is having the same problem I am and what I figured out is the problem for me at least.

When I go to unlock my 2014 Spark EV with the key fob or even sitting in side and using the door lock button on the arm rest the doors unlock and immediately lock. This has been driving me crazy for over 6 months. I would have to time it just right pressing the key fob and then lifting the handle to open the door before the doors locked themselves again.

Here is what I found out was the problem. I took the door panel off and peeled back the plastic dust over. There are two sets of wires. One set powers the door lock and the other goes to a sensor triggered by the manual door lock when locking or unlocking the door with the key. This is there in case your key fob breaks or the battery dies you can still get into the car with the key. The sensor must have gone bad and was telling the car that the door handle lock has been locked manually with the key.

My temporary solution was to simply disconnect the sensor which wasn't easy. If you have big hands forget it. Find someone who has long thin fingers or small hands to disconnect the sensor. The sensor's wires are on top and you have to reach behind and lift up a tab and push or pull the connector towards in the inside of the car perpendicular to the door.

The other wire that runs to the motor actuator that actually locks and unlocks the lock . The connector is at the bottom of the actuator and you pull the tab down and then pull the connector towards for front of the car parallel to the door. This connector is way easier to get to but you do not need to disconnect it if you are having the same problem I am having. I am describing it here so you will be able to tell which connector is which.

At some point I will have to replace the sensor and most likely the whole power lock motor actuator. I tried to loosen the three bolts that hold the locking mechanism but two of them must have been put on by a gorilla. My hope was perhaps is was just out of alignment slightly. I got two out of three loose but the third started to strip so I stopped before I completely ruined it. Might have to take it to a local mechanic and pay him a few bucks to loosen it for me.

With the sensor disconnected the locks are working perfectly. I can still unlock the car with the key but as soon as I open the door the alarm will go off. I am assuming that if I stick the key in the ignition the alarm will go turn off. That will be a last resort only if my key fob is broken or its battery has died.

Anyway, I hope that helps someone out there in the future.

 

[Wanda]

Thanks
Did you have an 82 code on your dash?

 

[Largo16]

My car does this in the cold/rainy season here in WA state. It only really becomes a bugger when you've left your keys on the seat while exiting, locking the door by pushing the lock button, and closing the door. The car sensing that the keys are inside, will honk and unlock but then due to the sensor issue, lock again - locking your keys inside. No '82' code here. Anyone come across a better solution than taking the door apart or entrusting a dealer?

 

[LoveMy2014SparkEV]

Thanks
Did you have an 82 code on your dash?

I don't remember getting an 82 code on my dash.

 

[LoveMy2014SparkEV]

My car does this in the cold/rainy season here in WA state. It only really becomes a bugger when you've left your keys on the seat while exiting, locking the door by pushing the lock button, and closing the door. The car sensing that the keys are inside, will honk and unlock but then due to the sensor issue, lock again - locking your keys inside. No '82' code here. Anyone come across a better solution than taking the door apart or entrusting a dealer?

Removing the door panel isn't too difficult. Just make sure when your prying it off use something made out of plastic or slide a thin bit of plastic between the metal frame of the door and a screwdriver or you will scratch the paint. Once you get the panel off just partly peel the think protective plastic near where the door latches. Here is a link to a YouTube video showing how to do it on the passengers front door. Same exact procedure for the drivers door. See my original post above for which wires they are. If you take it to a dealer or mechanic and just have them disconnect the wires shouldn't be more than a 15 minute job.

 

[Porsche]

By any chance did you happen to notice (or maybe have the the right service manuals to confirm), if it's possible to remove the switch panel that holds the power window switch without removing the entire door panel?

See my post: https://www.mychevysparkev.com/threads/how-to-change-window-switch.9354/#post-29033

I need to change the front passenger side window switch on my 2015. It looks like you can just pry the switch panel off, but it didn't budge and I didn't want to break it. You can almost, but not quite tell from the video you posted, whether it's screwed in from underneath.

 

[2015]

I am writing this mainly to help someone in the future who is having the same problem I am and what I figured out is the problem for me at least.

When I go to unlock my 2014 Spark EV with the key fob or even sitting in side and using the door lock button on the arm rest the doors unlock and immediately lock. This has been driving me crazy for over 6 months. I would have to time it just right pressing the key fob and then lifting the handle to open the door before the doors locked themselves again.

Here is what I found out was the problem. I took the door panel off and peeled back the plastic dust over. There are two sets of wires. One set powers the door lock and the other goes to a sensor triggered by the manual door lock when locking or unlocking the door with the key. This is there in case your key fob breaks or the battery dies you can still get into the car with the key. The sensor must have gone bad and was telling the car that the door handle lock has been locked manually with the key.

My temporary solution was to simply disconnect the sensor which wasn't easy. If you have big hands forget it. Find someone who has long thin fingers or small hands to disconnect the sensor. The sensor's wires are on top and you have to reach behind and lift up a tab and push or pull the connector towards in the inside of the car perpendicular to the door.

The other wire that runs to the motor actuator that actually locks and unlocks the lock . The connector is at the bottom of the actuator and you pull the tab down and then pull the connector towards for front of the car parallel to the door. This connector is way easier to get to but you do not need to disconnect it if you are having the same problem I am having. I am describing it here so you will be able to tell which connector is which.

At some point I will have to replace the sensor and most likely the whole power lock motor actuator. I tried to loosen the three bolts that hold the locking mechanism but two of them must have been put on by a gorilla. My hope was perhaps is was just out of alignment slightly. I got two out of three loose but the third started to strip so I stopped before I completely ruined it. Might have to take it to a local mechanic and pay him a few bucks to loosen it for me.

With the sensor disconnected the locks are working perfectly. I can still unlock the car with the key but as soon as I open the door the alarm will go off. I am assuming that if I stick the key in the ignition the alarm will go turn off. That will be a last resort only if my key fob is broken or its battery has died.

Anyway, I hope that helps someone out there in the future.

I am experiencing same problem. I have isolated symptoms to the following:

1 temperature below 50deg F precipitate this

2 after sitting in sun at above 60F does not occur

3 when warm after unlocking with keyfob all doors open normally with outside handle except for driver’s door. Opening Drivers door handle causes locking.

Do you know the part number for the sensor that needs replacing?

Thanks

 

[user 527]

I’ve noticed the temp influence as well…until I didn’t. I’ve been living with it for a couple of years now, but since I’m thinking of selling it, I need to do the repair (ordered the part last year, but have been kicking the can down the road). Will post back when I finally get to it…maybe next week.

 

[LoveMy2014SparkEV]

I have never replaced the sensor and have been living with it not connected for close to two years. Honestly I don't miss it. The only thing you lose by not having the sensor connected and working correct is the ability to lock and or unlock all the doors with your key in the drivers door lock. 99.9999% of the time I just use my key fob unlock my doors and lock them.

 

[2015]

I’ve noticed the temp influence as well…until I didn’t. I’ve been living with it for a couple of years now, but since I’m thinking of selling it, I need to do the repair (ordered the part last year, but have been kicking the can down the road). Will post back when I finally get to it…maybe next week.

Thanks, let us know how it goes. I have the wiring diagram if you need it. Let me know. Also, can you provide the part number of the actuator? Thanks

 

[2015]

I have never replaced the sensor and have been living with it not connected for close to two years. Honestly I don't miss it. The only thing you lose by not having the sensor connected and working correct is the ability to lock and or unlock all the doors with your key in the drivers door lock. 99.9999% of the time I just use my key fob unlock my doors and lock them.

Yes I get it but since I have to open the door and peel the plastic anyhow... And it will be a good deed for the next owner.

 

[sdsparkev]

I have a semi related issue that I learned to work around.

Scenario: going surfing and I need to lock my key fob in the car so no one steals the car while im in the water. I put a simple door key (cut a spare for $5 at the locksmith) in my wetsuit. Anyway, to lock your key fob in the car you need to open the driver door and hold down the armrest lock button for 5seconds. Close the door and it stays locked. If you don’t hold down the armrest lock button the door automatically unlocks when you shut the door.

So, that worked great. I’d close the door and verify all the doors were locked and I’d march down to the water. However, i noticed the whole car would often be unlocked when I got back from the beach (with the keyfob inside of course)! Weird. What was the cause?

When I shut the door, I would usually verify the door was locked by making sure the door lock posts were in the down position. But, stupidly, I would try the drivers exterior door handle just to make extra special sure the door was locked. I think this ‘try’ would either set off a bug or maybe a deliberate fail-safe would open it after maybe ten minutes? I tried waiting around for five minutes and it didn’t reopen, but I got bored and never actually verified the lock reopening in its own.

 

[2015]

Interesting. Where did you learn about the 5 second trick?

 

[user 527]

Thanks, let us know how it goes. I have the wiring diagram if you need it. Let me know. Also, can you provide the part number of the actuator? Thanks

 

[user 527]

View attachment 32

Www.getoemparts.com

 

[user 527]

Before I take the door panel off, I’m wondering if anyone has checked whether changing the three fuses corresponding to the door locks might affect a positive outcome. (?)

 

[user 527]

Www.getoemparts.com

You can also get the part here: https://www.amazon.com/ACDelco-94543219-Original-Equipment-Assembly/dp/B07JBJF8WD

 

[sdsparkev]

Interesting. Where did you learn about the 5 second trick?

I dont remember. If it wasn’t in the owners manual, I must have read it on a forum.

 

[user 527]

I replaced the actuator and all is well again. The hardest thing was removing the three screws on the face of the door jamb holding the actuator in place (and also remembering all the steps to perform in reverse when putting it back in place). I couldn't budge them, despite applying PB Blaster. Allowing the penetrant to work overnight might have helped, because I got them loose the next day with a bit more torque via a right angle screwdriver.

 

[2015]

Hi all thanks for your help. Great community!

I replaced the Drivers Side Lock Actuator which solved the lock/unlock problem. I did not have a problem removing the three attachment screws, they were tight but a two handed approach with the screw driver well planted in the screws worked. Putting everything together though took three tries as there is probably a certain order that is necessary in inserting the 4 actuator rods (bent 1/8 inch steel) and the two electrical connectors. I was concerned about bending the rods so I was probably a little too careful.

All is good now.
Hg