LED lights ?
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nikwax
Well-known member
EldRitch said:
you do not for the backup and license plate lights, based on my experience. I don't know about the brake lights.
I don't really care about the license plate light - that's not a safety feature.
However, answering my own question, you do not need the 50w resistor for the tail/stop bulbs (the upper ones) - the Philips Intense red LEDs work well there. Only slightly brighter than stock as taillights, but they are brighter (and faster) than stock when the stop light comes on: http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00P2D3W0A
I also tried the same LED as rear turn-signal, and got the "hyperflash" effect. It blinks the front light faster too, after replacing only the rear one.
However, answering my own question, you do not need the 50w resistor for the tail/stop bulbs (the upper ones) - the Philips Intense red LEDs work well there. Only slightly brighter than stock as taillights, but they are brighter (and faster) than stock when the stop light comes on: http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00P2D3W0A
I also tried the same LED as rear turn-signal, and got the "hyperflash" effect. It blinks the front light faster too, after replacing only the rear one.
Well, I found some nice, no-fuss solutions for improved lighting:
Headlights: Good reference material on lighting at: http://www.danielsternlighting.com/ Bottom line is that a bluer color wastes useful light and makes it harder to see.
So I got a pair of these: http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00U1OLOP0 They are Philips brightest bulbs - they claim 2x brighter than "standard" (which is what I'm pretty sure the Chevy bulbs are), and there are no issues with the pattern. These are not blue-coated, and I can easily believe their claim of twice as bright.
Brighter bulbs burn out faster (which is why Chevy uses long-life/low-output bulbs), and these are rated for only 300 hours, but I usually keep the DRLs off, so that should be more than a year for me.
Front turn signals: After a bit of searching Amazon reviews, I came across a review that said these Alla LEDs don't trigger hyper-flashing, so I gave them a try: http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01EEI9LLM
They are a good deal brighter than OEM. Edit: See below re. hyper flash.
Backups: http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00H8YAX1W Brighter, whiter - improves your smile.
Tail/Brake lights (the upper ones): http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00P2D3W0A These are a little brighter than OEM bulbs, but not much. I've ordered a set of the Red Alla LEDs to try, as they are probably brighter: http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01EEI9LL2
Rear Tail/Turn Signals: I tried the Philips Red LEDs in the lower rear lights, but they set off the turn-signal hyper-flashing, so I've ordered a set of the Alla Red LEDs (http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01EEI9LL2), hoping for no hyper-flash and no need to install large hot resistors.
Note: Federal law prohibits white lights visible from the side - only Yellow is acceptable. Since our cars use the front turn-signal as the side-light, you can't legally use the two-tone turn signals that go from white to yellow only when flashing.
************update next day*************
Well, apparently one of the Alla amber LEDs not triggering the hyper-flash was a fluke. Last night one of the two front ones started flashing fast. This morning I received the Red ones I ordered for the rear stop and turn lights, and each of those triggered hyper-flashing.
The good news is that I kind of like it. The LEDs are appreciably brighter than OEM on both low and high, and have a purer red look that is classy with my Salsa Red EV. The turn signals flash a few times slow, and then usually start blinking faster (it's pretty random), which is certainly going to catch the eye of oncoming drivers. So I'm going to leave it on hyper-flash, and not use large hot resistors to fool the car.
Anyone know if there is a replaceable flasher relay in the fuse box, or is flashing all controlled by software?
Headlights: Good reference material on lighting at: http://www.danielsternlighting.com/ Bottom line is that a bluer color wastes useful light and makes it harder to see.
So I got a pair of these: http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00U1OLOP0 They are Philips brightest bulbs - they claim 2x brighter than "standard" (which is what I'm pretty sure the Chevy bulbs are), and there are no issues with the pattern. These are not blue-coated, and I can easily believe their claim of twice as bright.
Brighter bulbs burn out faster (which is why Chevy uses long-life/low-output bulbs), and these are rated for only 300 hours, but I usually keep the DRLs off, so that should be more than a year for me.
Front turn signals: After a bit of searching Amazon reviews, I came across a review that said these Alla LEDs don't trigger hyper-flashing, so I gave them a try: http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01EEI9LLM
They are a good deal brighter than OEM. Edit: See below re. hyper flash.
Backups: http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00H8YAX1W Brighter, whiter - improves your smile.
Tail/Brake lights (the upper ones): http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00P2D3W0A These are a little brighter than OEM bulbs, but not much. I've ordered a set of the Red Alla LEDs to try, as they are probably brighter: http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01EEI9LL2
Rear Tail/Turn Signals: I tried the Philips Red LEDs in the lower rear lights, but they set off the turn-signal hyper-flashing, so I've ordered a set of the Alla Red LEDs (http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01EEI9LL2), hoping for no hyper-flash and no need to install large hot resistors.
Note: Federal law prohibits white lights visible from the side - only Yellow is acceptable. Since our cars use the front turn-signal as the side-light, you can't legally use the two-tone turn signals that go from white to yellow only when flashing.
************update next day*************
Well, apparently one of the Alla amber LEDs not triggering the hyper-flash was a fluke. Last night one of the two front ones started flashing fast. This morning I received the Red ones I ordered for the rear stop and turn lights, and each of those triggered hyper-flashing.
The good news is that I kind of like it. The LEDs are appreciably brighter than OEM on both low and high, and have a purer red look that is classy with my Salsa Red EV. The turn signals flash a few times slow, and then usually start blinking faster (it's pretty random), which is certainly going to catch the eye of oncoming drivers. So I'm going to leave it on hyper-flash, and not use large hot resistors to fool the car.
Anyone know if there is a replaceable flasher relay in the fuse box, or is flashing all controlled by software?
nikwax
Well-known member
Update this in 3-6 months time to see if your LEDs are still working. That's about how long my Amazon sourced LEDs lasted.
So I just installed the recommended H13 LEDs from, and so far at least in the garage they are impressive. Bright White without being blue at all. Their spec sheet says they draw 20w, and put out 2500 lumens/bulb, so they are slightly brighter than the Philips Extreme+ bulbs at 1780 lumens.
XenonDepot may have changed to a newer version or something, because my experience was nothing like that described by others. I removed the halogens, including the red gasket that belongs to the OEM bulb, and the LEDs (with their own gasket) fit right in, giving the appropriate flat-top pattern, higher on the right. No need to even adjust the headlights.
I used a couple of wire-ties to hold the little box in place on each side, and fanned the heat-sinking braid out for good circulation without touching anything else. I doubt very much that the braid will get hot while hanging out in the air in back of the headlight in our cars, because the instruction sheet makes it clear that the heat-sink is designed to work in cars where it is inside the headlight assembly.
NOTE: LEDs install with the flat plastic shield at the front end rotated to the BOTTOM, not the top. The reflector inverts the cut-off and gives the necessary flat-top beam.
XenonDepot may have changed to a newer version or something, because my experience was nothing like that described by others. I removed the halogens, including the red gasket that belongs to the OEM bulb, and the LEDs (with their own gasket) fit right in, giving the appropriate flat-top pattern, higher on the right. No need to even adjust the headlights.
I used a couple of wire-ties to hold the little box in place on each side, and fanned the heat-sinking braid out for good circulation without touching anything else. I doubt very much that the braid will get hot while hanging out in the air in back of the headlight in our cars, because the instruction sheet makes it clear that the heat-sink is designed to work in cars where it is inside the headlight assembly.
NOTE: LEDs install with the flat plastic shield at the front end rotated to the BOTTOM, not the top. The reflector inverts the cut-off and gives the necessary flat-top beam.
So what's the deal with LED headlights, instead of a 55W incandescent bulb you install a 20W LED bulb and a 35W electric heater so the car doesn't think you have a bad bulb?
If so, where's the power/range savings that we buy LEDs for?
If so, where's the power/range savings that we buy LEDs for?
That's the dilemma.
One could simply replace all the bulbs with LEDs, and ignore the email warnings from OnStar and the turn-signal hyperflash. This works fine.
Or one could replace the bulbs that don't cause hyperflash, i.e. the stop/brake lights, backups, and headlights, and ignore the protests from OnStar.
I'm still up in the air on the LED headlights. Those that I installed seem to waste a lot of light on the right side off the road, and this makes the eye see more light, so your pupil contracts, and you don't see as much on the road. I may go back to the brighter Philips incandescents.
One could simply replace all the bulbs with LEDs, and ignore the email warnings from OnStar and the turn-signal hyperflash. This works fine.
Or one could replace the bulbs that don't cause hyperflash, i.e. the stop/brake lights, backups, and headlights, and ignore the protests from OnStar.
I'm still up in the air on the LED headlights. Those that I installed seem to waste a lot of light on the right side off the road, and this makes the eye see more light, so your pupil contracts, and you don't see as much on the road. I may go back to the brighter Philips incandescents.
EldRitch said:
That's a problem when your light source doesn't geometrically match the reflector design specs. If the lamp was designed to have all the light coming from one small hot wire filament, ditching that and replacing it with 30 LEDs positioned all over is going to ruin the focus. It's a problem with HID conversion bulbs, and I've got to assume it's a much bigger problem with an LED array that looks like I stuck emitters all over my thumb.
Here's an article Daniel Stern wrote about the subject many years ago:
http://www.danielsternlighting.com/tech/bulbs/Hid/conversions/conversions.html
This particular H13 is just two LEDs (one left, one right) replacing each filament, and they are in the right location, but you are correct in essence - they are two 3mm flat patches of LED, instead of skinny wires, so they spread the light differently.
Updated - I went back to the Philips "200% brighter" incandescents.
Updated - I went back to the Philips "200% brighter" incandescents.
LASFIT H13/9008 LED Headlight... https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01H8VILFY?ref=yo_pop_ma_swf
I am happy with these, might be a bit on the blue side for some, plug and play, just haven't had them in long..only a week so far. Along with reverse, license plate and brake lights (brake lights only none of the turn signals) gom has jumped 3 miles and stayed around there after first night of use. Might not be enough to make it worth while, especially if one doesn't drive much at night, but was more of an experiment since I do drive at night. Am pleased with result.
I know most from this thread are long gone, but the info was helpful....many thanks.
I am happy with these, might be a bit on the blue side for some, plug and play, just haven't had them in long..only a week so far. Along with reverse, license plate and brake lights (brake lights only none of the turn signals) gom has jumped 3 miles and stayed around there after first night of use. Might not be enough to make it worth while, especially if one doesn't drive much at night, but was more of an experiment since I do drive at night. Am pleased with result.
I know most from this thread are long gone, but the info was helpful....many thanks.
Well then you know this next question:SparkyJ said:
How pleased is the oncoming traffic with your new LED's.
(I see chitty aftermarket LED headlights all the time...)
If you can,, post a picture of the Low Beam cutoff pattern while parked about 20 ft. from a light colored wall.
I think you'll see these bulbs act like flood lights with a lot of light spilling above the cutoff line. Look at how you light up reflective signs compared to stock bulbs.
The stock incandescent bulbs give a decent cutoff pattern.
I haven't seen any LED's that can do that. The H13 housings are depending on that low beam light source to come from one precise spot.
Who knows.. maybe you found a winner !
NORTON said:
I will try to get a good pic and figure out how to post it here. Once installed the light spread and focus was the first thing I looked at. With the led chips positioned on the left and right sides only, the light pattern is very similar to stock and is taking advantage of the reflector housing, as it should since that is how the sparks headlights are designed. However, I am sure they are brighter to oncoming traffic as they put out about twice the lumens, but the focus and spread is similar, so doubt traffic is being blinded.
Imo those factory projection led lights on most new cars now days are by far the most blinding and have my doubts I am blinding anyone as bad as those things, especially over bumbs as they always look like they are flashing you, behind you or oncoming.
PhilPen
Well-known member
Does anyone know if our cars contain a blinker/flasher relay for the turn signal lights? Many web-sites seem to list LED bulb compatible blinker/flasher relays for sale for our cars but I can't seem to find any reference to blinker/flasher relays (or their location) in the owners manual or on fuse/relay diagrams.
