List your miles and MPGe

[MrDRMorgan]

Here is a link where you can find the gallon-gasoline equivalent in kWh for different blends of gasoline:
https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Gasoline_gallon_equivalent#Gasoline_gallon_equivalent_tables.

Multiply your trip meter's mi/kWh value by the GGE value from the table and then multiply that value by 80% (0.80) [L2 charging efficiency] to get the MPGe value for your vehicle. Unless you manually reset the trip meter, it will keep a running mi/kWh average starting from the last time it was reset. I reset the trip meter after every full charge. For the last 1000 miles [Dec - Mar in Central California] I averaged 5.2 mi/kWh. Using a winter blend value of 32.97 kWh/gal and 80% L2 charging efficiency, my MPGe is 137. Use the EPA value of 33.7 kWh/gal if you want to make a comparison to the EPA estimate on a window sticker.

The March 1, 2018 report I received from OnStar shows my MPGe to be 134 for the previous month [February].

 

[Planerench]

If your primary concern is environmentalist you will want to compare your EV to gasoline in terms of relative CO2 production.
When you burn one gallon of pure gasoline you get 19.64 pounds of carbon dioxide (CO2) (from E10, gas containing 10% ethanol, you get 18.95 pounds of CO2).
If you go to https://oaspub.epa.gov/powpro/ept_pack.charts you can get a figure for how clean or otherwise your electricity generation is by entering your zip code and electricity supplier.
In my area of CT using UI for electricity the CO2 emission rate is given as 571 pounds of CO2 per MWh or 0.571 lbs/Kwh (a relatively clean state). Thus for the equivalent CO2 as produced by burning one gallon of pure gasoline I'll get 19.64/0.571 = 34.4 KWh (for E10 its 33.2 KWh).
Multiplying this value by my charger efficiency, I’ll use 87.8 % as my L2 charger efficiency ( https://www.veic.org/docs/Transportation/20130320-EVT-NRA-Final-Report.pdf ). Thus for the same quantity of CO2 released by burning one gallon of gas I’ll get 30.2 KWh in my battery. Since my current average is 4.1miles/KWh (it’s started going up with the warmer weather) I get a pollution mpge of 124.

Efficiency losses during electricity distribution via the grid would already have been taken into account if the government published figure for CO2 lbs/Kwh is based upon what the customer receives, which seems logical. However, there are additional losses incurred with gasoline that I have ignored, so gasoline is in actuality dirtier than the 19-20 lbs of CO2 you get per gallon by simply burning it, because it takes significant energy to refine and distribute the gasoline… and I’ve ignored this. My ultimate aim would be to use home solar power for my electricity source then I’d generate no net CO2 from driving. Unfortunately I live in a very shady area so I’m not the best candidate for this (I don’t want to cut down multiple large trees to go solar).

I am within round-trip driving distance of the hydroelectric plant that supplies my power!

 

[MrDRMorgan]

If your primary concern is environmentalist you will want to compare your EV to gasoline in terms of relative CO2 production.
When you burn one gallon of pure gasoline you get 19.64 pounds of carbon dioxide (CO2) (from E10, gas containing 10% ethanol, you get 18.95 pounds of CO2).
If you go to https://oaspub.epa.gov/powpro/ept_pack.charts you can get a figure for how clean or otherwise your electricity generation is by entering your zip code and electricity supplier.
In my area of CT using UI for electricity the CO2 emission rate is given as 571 pounds of CO2 per MWh or 0.571 lbs/Kwh (a relatively clean state). Thus for the equivalent CO2 as produced by burning one gallon of pure gasoline I'll get 19.64/0.571 = 34.4 KWh (for E10 its 33.2 KWh).
Multiplying this value by my charger efficiency, I’ll use 87.8 % as my L2 charger efficiency ( https://www.veic.org/docs/Transportation/20130320-EVT-NRA-Final-Report.pdf ). Thus for the same quantity of CO2 released by burning one gallon of gas I’ll get 30.2 KWh in my battery. Since my current average is 4.1miles/KWh (it’s started going up with the warmer weather) I get a pollution mpge of 124.

Efficiency losses during electricity distribution via the grid would already have been taken into account if the government published figure for CO2 lbs/Kwh is based upon what the customer receives, which seems logical. However, there are additional losses incurred with gasoline that I have ignored, so gasoline is in actuality dirtier than the 19-20 lbs of CO2 you get per gallon by simply burning it, because it takes significant energy to refine and distribute the gasoline… and I’ve ignored this. My ultimate aim would be to use home solar power for my electricity source then I’d generate no net CO2 from driving. Unfortunately I live in a very shady area so I’m not the best candidate for this (I don’t want to cut down multiple large trees to go solar).

Thanks for this posting. It provides great information so I printed the L1 and L2 Charging Efficiency report and I too will use 87.8% for my L2 EVSE.

 

[TheLondonBroiler]

How are you guys seeing the MPGe anyway?

I'm curious to know this too. When I log onto the OnStar full website, it redirects me to the MyChevrolet full site, which shows a "My Charging and efficiency status section," which tells me that my vehicle isn't associated with an onstar account.......

Yesterday I drove very conservative in L, DRL off never going above 56mph on the highway with cruise set ON and STILL only 3.7kwh per mile efficiency displayed after a 60+ mile jaunt. (It was 42 degrees at the time)

Was this round trip or one way with an elevation increase? Wind direction, tire pressure, road condition, climate control setting, acceleration/managing hills, and other factors I'm sure, all come into play.

I didn't leave work until 01:40 this morning, and out of curiosity, I wanted to see what I could manage on my way back home. Fortunately, while there is a interstate I usually take to work, there is a 4 lane highway with 35-55mph speeds that runs parallel. With a heavy hooded coat, leather gloves, and my seat heater as my only friend, I drove 31.75 miles in 37-42°F (no climate control was used), my home is 50ft higher in elevation than my work place, there was a headwind of ~10mph, and I managed 6.2mi/kw efficiency for the trip. My tires are inflated 41psi cold, which is contrary to both GM and tire manufacturer recommendations. Also, because I was driving during the wee hours and encountered few other cars, I
decelerated up hills (I live in the foot hills of the Appalachian mountains) and I would estimate my average trip speed was right around 35mph. I would not drive in this fashion with any amount of traffic, unless it meant not getting to my destination otherwise.

 

[SparkE]

MPGe :

33.7 kilowatt-hours of electricity is equivalent to one gallon of gasoline.

How many miles can you vehicle travel on 33.7 kWh?

If you get 4 miles per kWh, then you are getting 4*33.7=134.8 MPGe.

If you get 4.5 miles per kWh, then you are getting 4.5*33.7=151.65 MPGe.

If you get 5 miles per kWh, then you are getting 5*33.7=168.5 MPGe.

 

[Chris101]

Regarding my 60 mile jaunt. I showed maximum efficiency (all lit up to the best mileage possible/most efficient) on my 30 miles going THERE.

There was no winds that day (maybe 4-5mph tops) -- and no wind chill factor either

ON the way home I saw less efficiency on the lights but still above half. My thought was battery conditioning happening on my way home so I even turned off the radio for that ride home.

 

[NORTON]

.... My thought was battery conditioning happening on my way home so I even turned off the radio for that ride home.

If you don't plug in at work and it was a cold day, you could have 'battery conditioning' happen on the return leg ,, but then that would be displayed on the usage page.

 

[Chris101]

.... My thought was battery conditioning happening on my way home so I even turned off the radio for that ride home.

If you don't plug in at work and it was a cold day, you could have 'battery conditioning' happen on the return leg ,, but then that would be displayed on the usage page.

I was driving so bringing up a usage page was not on my mind.

 

[SparkE]

.... My thought was battery conditioning happening on my way home so I even turned off the radio for that ride home.

If you don't plug in at work and it was a cold day, you could have 'battery conditioning' happen on the return leg ,, but then that would be displayed on the usage page.

I was driving so bringing up a usage page was not on my mind.

It will remain on the "usage page" until your next charge to 'full battery' (when everything is reset).

 

[agdodgerfan]

Just wanted to post an update. I am now at 96,500 miles. Range usually says about 66 - 70 miles when I am fully charged. I am addicted to the Level 3 option. Mainly because I drive a lot. When I can just top off at home on level one I do.

 

[NORTON]

Just wanted to post an update. I am now at 96,500 miles. Range usually says about 66 - 70 miles when I am fully charged. ...

You Da'Man !!! Keep it up!

Also what's your mile / kWh this time of year.
If you're like me, you don't have time to baby the car and drive slow.

When I do take the country road way home (slow), I'm greeted the next time with 76-78 miles on the GOM!
And that's with performance tires, at 52k miles on the clock. I DCFC maybe a few times a month at the most.
I will be putting the stock wheels and tires back on it at some point this summer just to check what the max range can be on the GOM.

 

[Tim]

Just wanted to post an update. I am now at 96,500 miles. Range usually says about 66 - 70 miles when I am fully charged. ...

You Da'Man !!! Keep it up!

Also what's your mile / kWh this time of year.
If you're like me, you don't have time to baby the car and drive slow.

When I do take the country road way home (slow), I'm greeted the next time with 76-78 miles on the GOM!
And that's with performance tires, at 52k miles on the clock. I DCFC maybe a few times a month at the most.
I will be putting the stock wheels and tires back on it at some point this summer just to check what the max range can be on the GOM.

I am new to the Spark EV. When you say state your range (66-70), do you mean the max range, the min range or the range in the blue circle. We just received 2015 with about 19k miles and after the second full charge the max was 73 and the blue circle was 61. We did sit in it not moving with the AC on for a bit to try to figure things out. Thanks.

 

[MrDRMorgan]

Just wanted to post an update. I am now at 96,500 miles. Range usually says about 66 - 70 miles when I am fully charged. ...

You Da'Man !!! Keep it up!

Also what's your mile / kWh this time of year.
If you're like me, you don't have time to baby the car and drive slow.

When I do take the country road way home (slow), I'm greeted the next time with 76-78 miles on the GOM!
And that's with performance tires, at 52k miles on the clock. I DCFC maybe a few times a month at the most.
I will be putting the stock wheels and tires back on it at some point this summer just to check what the max range can be on the GOM.

I am new to the Spark EV. When you say state your range (66-70), do you mean the max range, the min range or the range in the blue circle. We just received 2015 with about 19k miles and after the second full charge the max was 73 and the blue circle was 61. We did sit in it not moving with the AC on for a bit to try to figure things out. Thanks.

It will take a few charging cycles for the car to adjust to your driving style. I had a similar experience with my 2016 Spark EV I purchased used. As I recall, the blue ball read in the 60s when I bought it. I now see numbers over just over 100 in 70 degree weather with no heater or AC usage.

 

[agdodgerfan]

Hit 97,000 miles today. Over the last 1,000 miles my average on the dashboard says 4.5 mpkwh. 66 to 70 is what my blue circle says when I leave for work in the morning. Now for many you will get a better range than me. At 5am headed into orange county I usually drive 80 to the governed 90 mile per hour max. 25 mile trip to work I use about 45 to 49 percent of my battery. On my way home I have a lot of traffic and use about 32 to 38% of the battery. So far issued I have had are minimal. New 12 volt battery almost $200. Today when I went to buy my 5th set of tires, they advised my CV joint is leaking. Hoping it is covered under the 8 year /100k drivetrain warranty. Also replaced my rear tires for the 1st time. Looks like I need to replace rear shocks because there was cupping on one of the tires.

 

[agdodgerfan]

Almost at the 100k mark. 99,800. Gonna run out of warranty this week.

 

[NORTON]

Almost at the 100k mark. 99,800. Gonna run out of warranty this week.

You Da'Man!

Did you ever get a free alignment check with the printed out results?
I'm not sure if weak shocks in the rear would result in cupping the tires.
If it does need some alignment adjustments this might result in better efficiency numbers and longer tire life!

I'm following your lead at 55k miles and plan on driving this car to the end!
I recently got the HPCM replaced under warranty and the recall for 'Range Estimation' and now I'm seeing much higher GOM numbers, even after driving it similar to your commuting (Just as fast but ~52 mile round trip.
I Capacity Checked the stock 12V battery and it is in great shape!
I'm driving around with a small motorcycle battery with adapter cables until I reinstall the original