gra
Well-known member
Glad I could help, it's too bad that you had to find out after the fact. As to whether you need QC capability or not, it really depends on what you plan to use the car for. For commuting, it's generally not needed unless you're pushing the max. range when the car is new (since the battery will lose capacity as it ages, and you'll also use more energy when using the AC and especially the heater/defroster, you need to allow for this loss of range). Fortunately, you're in a climate that will cause slower degradation, the Spark has an active, liquid-cooled Thermal Management System for the battery that further protects it, and you're only leasing for 3? years, so you shouldn't lose more than 20% capacity or so over that period, possibly considerably less.EVGuy said:GRA: What can I say other than thanks for the rock solid info. I wish you had been the dealer rep I was dealing with the last couple of days. These dealers need someone as knowledgeable as you. From the link you included and the experience of others on this thread, it sounds like many of us are getting the same crackpot assurances from sales people that the Spark can utilize a quick charger. My guy didn't even know there were two different protocols, though he did have the grace, eventually, to acknowledge that the car would not accept either one.
So I'm left wondering if I really need the ability to quick charge in 20 minutes. It's a psychological safety net for sure. But would I really use it that often? And, I really like the zip and feel of driving the Spark.
It should all be resolved, one way or the other, by this weekend.
Tony's range test of a Spark EV under ideal conditions at 62 mph resulted in about 98 miles of range to absolute empty, but this is very bad for the battery. Most people prefer to keep an emergency reserve by normally discharging to either the first Low Battery Warning (LBW) or at most the second, Very Low Battery Warning (VLBW); the deeper you discharge the battery the shorter its lifespan. In Tony's test, the car went 78 miles to LBW, and 88 to VLBW; subtract from that allowances for use of HVAC/lights/wipers/ascents and headwinds, etc. Taking all of the above into consideration, you can probably figure on going at least 50 miles and possibly 60 or a bit more at ca. 60-65 mph until LBW, while making free use of the HVAC system and accessories, for the next three years if not longer.
Where QC is important is if you want to do shorter road trips, or if you're marginal on your commute range _now_. The 3.3kW on-board charger is very slow when charging away from home (and is the single biggest deficiency of the Spark EV IMO, as all its competitors now come with chargers approximately twice as fast). A faster L2 charger also allows more spontaneous trips immediately after returning home in the evening with a nearly empty battery. Lacking a faster on-board L2 charger, the QC is more important for such trips (assuming one's available).
When your battery degrades, having QC capability may be the difference between being able to do your commute or not. And the same holds true if you move or change jobs giving you a longer commute.
HTH in your decision. Personally I wouldn't want a car without the QC, because there are trips I could take with one that are impractical without it, and even though there aren't any CCS QCs available in my area now, there will be within the next year or two. But that's me, and I don't need a car to commute.