Spark trunk charger specs?

[Eagle]

Looking at buying a Used Spark. Does the charger that comes in the trunk only do 120v, 8-12amp charging, or is it dual Voltage 120v/240v capable with a 240v plug adaptor? I have a welder that is dual voltage and comes with an adaptor.

 

[bicycleguy]

120v only

 

[Geri M.]

Where can I buy a used on board charger that comes with the Chevy spark ev?

 

[Eagle]

I bought this 120v/240v Dual Voltage Charger. It does 6/8/10/13/16 amps on both 120v or 240v. They have several others depending on your needs but this works good on my off-grid inverter as I can only pull a max of 4kw.

https://a.co/d/8Bwzu1c

EVJUICION Level 1-2 EV Charger 16Amp 3.8kW 110V-240V NEMA 6-20 Plug 5-15 Adapter Current Adjustable Home Electric Vehicle Charger Fits All J1772 Electric Car 16ft Extension Cord for Indoor Outdoor https://a.co/d/hja6x0k

 

[Limesparklover]

I bought mine from https://www.primecom.tech/collectio...6SB5QPfyYgPeuz-r3oikTuTZRHh7eaqEaArjrEALw_wcB
They had the only ones that have a really long cable and I called them to confirm that I had a old type dryer outlet so they could tell me which one I needed. It charges both 110 and 220v.

 

[Infinion]

https://www.gm-volt.com/threads/2016-volt-120v-evse-is-l1-l2-conversion-capable.218442/

It's been tested that GM's OEM EVSE for the Gen 1 (circa 2013) and Gen 2 (circa 2016) Volt handles 240V. But it is hardwired to only offer 8A or 12A despite 240V typically having higher current capabilities.

The Spark EV used Gen 1 volt parts throughout its high voltage system. The EVSE will be no different. You're welcome to look at component ratings inside but you'll ruin its waterproof rating.

Where can I buy a used on board charger that comes with the Chevy spark ev?

Technically the onboard charger is the hardwired module in the engine compartment, the thing in the trunk is an EVSE (electric vehicle service equipment).

You can get an OEM Volt or Spark EVSE on eBay easily enough. But don't bother with them and get yourself a modern one that has more functionality like what the users above have posted.

I would recommend Vevor EVSE's. Here's one that comes with nema 6-20 and 5-15 plugs:

https://m.vevor.com/portable-ev-cha...ging-station-for-sae-j1772-evs-p_010981245345

 

[Geri M.]

https://www.gm-volt.com/threads/2016-volt-120v-evse-is-l1-l2-conversion-capable.218442/

It's been tested that GM's OEM EVSE for the Gen 1 (circa 2013) and Gen 2 (circa 2016) Volt handles 240V. But it is hardwired to only offer 8A or 12A despite 240V typically having higher current capabilities.

The Spark EV used Gen 1 volt parts throughout its high voltage system. The EVSE will be no different. You're welcome to look at component ratings inside but you'll ruin its waterproof rating.


Technically the onboard charger is the hardwired module in the engine compartment, the thing in the trunk is an EVSE (electric vehicle service equipment).

You can get an OEM Volt or Spark EVSE on eBay easily enough. But don't bother with them and get yourself a modern one that has more functionality like what the users above have posted.

I would recommend Vevor EVSE's. Here's one that comes with nema 6-20 and 5-15 plugs:

https://m.vevor.com/portable-ev-cha...ging-station-for-sae-j1772-evs-p_010981245345

Thanks for alerting me on exactly what I'm looking for and for the recommendation. If I purchase the one you recommended will it charge from my home since my car has been sitting completely dead. Is that all I need?

 

[Infinion]

Thanks for alerting me on exactly what I'm looking for and for the recommendation. If I purchase the one you recommended will it charge from my home since my car has been sitting completely dead. Is that all I need?

Oh you're the same guy that posted in User 2685's thread. Before you buy a new EVSE why not ask a neighbor with an EV to test your on-board charger with their level 1 or 2 EVSE? Just like in that thread, make sure the 12V AGM battery has a good state of charge so all the electronics can initialize. You can check voltage with a simple voltmeter/multimeter on the terminals. If it charges fine, then yes definitely buy a replacement that is compatible with the strongest plugs in your home.

Other reasons it won't charge could be damage to the charge port pins, a blown charge port fuse, damaged module connectors, a damaged wire harness leading from the charge port to the on-board charger under the 12V battery, or dirty contact pins in your charge port. Most of that list would only be a consideration if you got into an accident on that side of the car.

You'll also have problems if there is no continuity (5V) across the safety interlock loop that fails if you have the fake engine cover (F103) removed, or more specifically, the driver's side bolt has been removed or unfastened enough from the switch this bolt keeps pushed closed.