Issues with your Spark EV?

[EVeveryman]

I am in the market for an EV and the Spark is my front runner now but I would like to hear what issues those who have acquired one have had.

When I test drove a Spark EV the handling had a little float to it, like the 1976 Caprice Classic I learned on, but other than that I was generally impressed.

I realize they have only been out a short time but any feedback given would be appreciated.

 

[MysteriousJ]

There are a couple of things brought up in the suggestions thread, you should give it a read
http://www.mychevysparkev.com/forum/viewtopic.php?f=2&t=3447

But as far me, not really issues just nitpicks at this point.
-There is no way to disable (as far as I know) the autolock on all doors when you're in D.
-'Frankenplug' availability, or lack there of :lol:
-The stock tires aren't particularly great with handling and I still shudder on the thought of driving on a very rainy and/or very windy day. This will be inevitable during the winter/spring on overpasses on I-5 and I-80 around the Sacramento, CA area. You can get better tires with more rolling resistance and traction but you'll probably cut your max range.

 

[markcmann]

I am in the market for an EV and the Spark is my front runner now but I would like to hear what issues those who have acquired one have had.

When I test drove a Spark EV the handling had a little float to it, like the 1976 Caprice Classic I learned on, but other than that I was generally impressed.

I realize they have only been out a short time but any feedback given would be appreciated.

Here is another thread listing issues/suggestions on improvements:
http://www.mychevysparkev.com/forum/viewtopic.php?f=9&t=3434

 

[lalacurf121]

You can get better tires with more rolling resistance and traction but you'll probably cut your max range.
sbobet asia

 

[NORTON]

I bought mine used with 3200 mi and now I'm 14.5k. There is free public charging everywhere I go, so I didn't spend a dime on the first 9k mi. of ownership.
I started plugging in at home for 'Battery Conditioning' reasons when very cold weather got here.

Definitely hold out for the $750 optional CCS DC Fast Charge. DCFC is the future. You may not use it much. There may not be any near you now, but soon.....

Just a few times the Climate Control popup header on the center display didn't respond to moving the CC knobs. The CC worked as requested.
A quick reboot at a stop light gets the display working normally.
That is the only thing I can report for 'issues' !!

You won't regret this car.
The thing is a hoot to drive! I enjoy it everyday!
I have swapped to 'high performance' tires in the stock sizes, but I'm saving the stock tires for next time I need them.

 

[ReddyKilowatt]

My 2015 had a warranty issue with the Sirius XM radio which turned about to be a bad cable - took 3 tries to get the right one in and working. On the other hand, every time they tried they detailed the car and gave it a full charge, so it wasn't as annoying as it could have been....

 

[jsca72]

I have had my 2014 Spark for 2 1/2 years. Only repair in that time was a software update to deal with a minor AC problem. I don't have the fast charging option, it wasn't available at the time I bought my car. In all this time I've had my car, I wouldn't have had the chance to use fast charging if I had it. The nearest fast charger is 92 highway miles away, and there's only one at that location. The only public chargers (besides Teslas) in our county are L2s.

I continue to absolutely LOVE this car! I have no desire or need to replace it in any near future.

 

[Sparkler]

The wiper blades were shot on mine from day one. Did not find out about it for 5 months due to the drought. Replaced under warranty. So far, I've had to add washer fluid, that's it.

Oh, and I discovered that if I did not let a quick charge finish to at least 95% that I would get some messages after driving off. Service Stabilitrack and Service Steering came up a few times before I realized that a partial QC was leaving something very hot. There is quite a stream of hot air that exits around the left front tire while quick charging, and stopping before it tapers down and gets a chance to cool off whatever is producing that heat must let the heat affect nearby systems when the fan shuts down.

 

[NORTON]

....before I realized that a partial QC was leaving something very hot. There is quite a stream of hot air that exits around the left front tire while quick charging, and stopping before it tapers down and gets a chance to cool off whatever is producing that heat must let the heat affect nearby systems when the fan shuts down.

This is an interesting observation!
The heat is coming from the AC condenser which is mounted across the front of the car. (The wind must have been just right when you felt it at the left side only.) The AC system has a freon-to-coolant heat exchanger. That coolant loop circulates to the battery pack to keep it cool when needed, (DCFC).
That coolant loop can also warm the battery when needed.

I stop a DCFC all the time after 10-15 minutes. I wait for the 48kW charge to taper off to 24kW @ ~80% point. Never had a problem.

But here's the deal;
I always then drive the car for at least 10 minutes to my home or wherever. The TMS continues to run to cool the battery pack.

Doing a 80% DCFC and then moving the car to a different parking spot and shutting down WILL leave the battery cells at a high temp, and the TMS is now shut down.
Could this be 'Bad Practice' for the battery pack?

 

[Sparkler]

....before I realized that a partial QC was leaving something very hot. There is quite a stream of hot air that exits around the left front tire while quick charging, and stopping before it tapers down and gets a chance to cool off whatever is producing that heat must let the heat affect nearby systems when the fan shuts down.

This is an interesting observation!
The heat is coming from the AC condenser which is mounted across the front of the car. (The wind must have been just right when you felt it at the left side only.) The AC system has a freon-to-coolant heat exchanger. That coolant loop circulates to the battery pack to keep it cool when needed, (DCFC).
That coolant loop can also warm the battery when needed.

I stop a DCFC all the time after 10-15 minutes. I wait for the 48kW charge to taper off to 24kW @ ~80% point. Never had a problem.

But here's the deal;
I always then drive the car for at least 10 minutes to my home or wherever. The TMS continues to run to cool the battery pack.

Doing a 80% DCFC and then moving the car to a different parking spot and shutting down WILL leave the battery cells at a high temp, and the TMS is now shut down.
Could this be 'Bad Practice' for the battery pack?

Both times I've seen those messages, it was after 20-25 minutes, charging a half depleted battery, not a quick top-off. I was in a hurry to get back on the freeway, and both times it was on the road @ 50-60 MPH when the messages came up.

Left side is just where I happened to notice it while getting ready to unplug.

Both times it was at the same DCQC station in Hayward. I was doing about 100 miles both times and that stop was about midway, so I did not need a full charge to get to the next QC the first time, or to home the second.

At one station I have seen the taper-off start @ 90%, so my 2014 at least is still going all out @ 80%, at least at that one station that has Voltage and Amperage displays.

 

[NORTON]

.... if I did not let a quick charge finish to at least 95% that I would get some messages after driving off. Service Stabilitrack and Service Steering came up a few times ....

Is this repeatable?
When you have any Check Engine light or other warning light you can press the blue Onstar button and ask for them to read the codes for the faults.
Ask for them in a description and the actual fault code number.


I use DCFC at least once a week or more. I've never had an issue using them.

 

[refinerysmells]

I found that negative side of 12volt under hood battery crimp connector on my car had not been fully crimped from factory, it had some slight movement where cable goes into crimp on neg battery post that caused the car to freak out one day, once turned off then on 5 min later it displayed low range from 71 miles to only 21 miles got it home then no power at all. Opened hood and happened to touch neg 12v battery cable, car powered up agin! Used this tool http://www.harborfreight.com/hydraulic-wire-crimping-tool-66150.html crimped it tight and problem has been gone ever since. These cars seem sensitive to that under hood 12v battery having a good connection. If your car is ever dead this should be your first place to check if your ever stranded, just touch the wires to the 12v under hood battery find the bad connection! This cheap fix is ok with me and still think the Spark EV is the best hot rod/car for the money.