Level 2 Charger Install

[mikew66]

A while back, I decided to install a Level 2 Charger. I drive 44 miles each day and needed a quicker charge at night. I chose the Clipper Creek LCS-20 and haven't had any issues so far.

I tapped into an electric dryer outlet.

I then ran the conduit and the wire, which was the hardest part. I installed all of the pipe and fittings and the box, outlet, and cover.

I installed a NEMA 14-50 plug to the end of the charger to make it portable if need be. I used one like this.

Finished

It was a pretty straight forward project. So far, it has worked without any issues.

 

[ImTedBell]

Do you have a gas dryer?

 

[mikew66]

Yes

 

[ImTedBell]

ah explains why you can convert the outlet for EV charging.

 

[SparkMoore]

I did almost the same thing, except I have an electric dryer. My install included a 60 amp switch that can be toggled between the dryer and the charger. And, I hardwired the EVSE. The good thing is that I can use both the dryer and the charger. The bad thing is that I can only use one at a time. It hasn't been a problem so far, but if I ever needed to dry clothes and charge at the same time, I would have to pick one or the other.

The reason I chose to go this route is that my 100 amp electrical panel was already maxed out and I didn't want to spend the money to upgrade to a 200 amp panel. The cost to upgrade would have been in the thousands. The cost for the switch and materials to do it this way was less than $150.

 

[TonyWilliams]

I'll Debbie Downer here and point out that installing a 50 amp NEMA 14-50 outlet on a 30 amp circuit could be dangerous. Using a 14-50 without a proper neutral also won't work as intended for uses other than EV charging. Lastly, it's specifically against code to put "Romex" cables in conduit.

At a minimum, I would put a sign near the plug stating "EV CHARGING ONLY - 24 AMPS MAXIMUM"

 

[NORTON]

.... Lastly, it's specifically against code to ....

Agreed. If you are going to spend the time and money to DIY, why not spend an extra hour and figure out exactly how it should be done 'To Code'.
And then do the work that way.

Worst case: Explaining to your insurance company why the newly installed 'Home EV charging station' was the way it was found by the fire investigators....

Although: EVSE's will tell the car (via the pilot signal) to only draw the rated power the EVSE is capable of.

 

[mikew66]

I'll Debbie Downer here and point out that installing a 50 amp NEMA 14-50 outlet on a 30 amp circuit could be dangerous. Using a 14-50 without a proper neutral also won't work as intended for uses other than EV charging. Lastly, it's specifically against code to put "Romex" cables in conduit.

At a minimum, I would put a sign near the plug stating "EV CHARGING ONLY - 24 AMPS MAXIMUM"

Thanks for the info about the Romex. I'm moving in a few months and plan on taking it all down. Currently, it's not used for anything else besides charging the Spark. I changed out the circuit breaker also to the correct size breaker per the instructions.

 

[ImTedBell]

Tony, It looks like there is a neutral and ground. I agree with 14-50 advertising a 50 amp but it's at most a 30 amp circuit. I think he could have gotten away with just using a dryer cord instead of rewiring the outlet....

Mike, You changed the breaker to a 20 amp? if that's the case you should be fine. Keep in mind that EV charging is a continuous load so heat buildup is a concern.

 

[mikew66]

Yes it is a 20 amp and it's to far to use the dryer outlet.

 

[Sparkler]

You should have a bushing in the hole where the original wires enter the box. Those sharp edges are a short in the making.

I would have re-used the dryer outlet and made an adapter to fit the larger sockets. That way you have matched the outlet to the breaker on the fixed wiring at least.

 

[mikew66]

You should have a bushing in the hole where the original wires enter the box. Those sharp edges are a short in the making.

I would have re-used the dryer outlet and made an adapter to fit the larger sockets. That way you have matched the outlet to the breaker on the fixed wiring at least.

The dryer was too far away. I park in the driveway. Thanks for the tips everyone. Like I said, I'll be removing everything when I move next year. I'll make sure everything is up to code next time.

 

[emv]

Any amateur who wants to work on their wiring should pick up a copy of the latest version of Wiring Simplified http://www.electricwiring.com/WS/wiring.html . It's written for the layman and has been THE reference for years. Doing it to code will keep you safer, keep your insurance in force, and keep you from being sued by the next owner.

 

[TonyWilliams]

Tony, It looks like there is a neutral and ground. I agree with 14-50 advertising a 50 amp but it's at most a 30 amp circuit. I think he could have gotten away with just using a dryer cord instead of rewiring the outlet....

Mike, You changed the breaker to a 20 amp? if that's the case you should be fine. Keep in mind that EV charging is a continuous load so heat buildup is a concern.

Interesting. I now see that the dryer outlet had a neutral and ground tied together. Very odd.

Anyhoo, yes, if seems a simple dryer cord extension would have worked, however, I'd prefer a proper wiring job.

It would be a simple matter to use a 30 amp outlet (NEMA 14-30) to alleviate overloading the circuit when I show up at his house and plug in my 40 amp EV.

The 20 amp breaker should save the day for a temporary install.

 

[ImTedBell]

The EVSE is only going to be supplying a 15 amp signal. There's something wrong if your drawing 40 amps...

 

[NORTON]

Well, to nit pick, EVSE are a logic board and a big relay to supply wall power to the car. The relay is closed or open.
It cannot control the power going through it. It sends a pilot signal the the car's onboard charger telling it to only draw X amount of power.
This is 3.3kW for the Spark EV.

For example: I have a kit built JuiceBox that I used for my Volt (3.3kW). The JB has a pot in there for adjusting the pilot signal to the car. I never touched it because all I had was the Volt and the wiring I used was adequate for 15A @ 240V.
I got a 4 day test drive in a BMW i3 which charges at 6.6kW. So before plugging in the i3 I had a clamp-on ammeter on the input side of the L2 and a small screw driver ready to adjust the pilot signal pot.
When I plugged the car in I saw a big number and immediately fumbled to turn down the pot screw. I brought it down to 13.75 A which is what the Volt would draw. 240V x 13.75A = 3300 watts.
If I hadn't set the pilot signal,, bad things to my house wiring might have happened before the circuit breaker popped.