Place Key in Transmitter Pocket

[JMenacker]

We had a fairly nice day Sunday so it seemed a great time to wash the recent winter crud off the used-to-be white 2015 Spark EV. I grabbed the seldom used spare fob for the car and was greeted with a "No remote detected, Place key in transmitter pocket" message on the DIC. I popped out the fob blade and "keyhole" cover on the steering stalk, then inserted the fob blade in the exposed slot but the No remote detected error remained.

I thought perhaps that particular fob battery was low, so ran back inside and retrieved the fob normally used, but the same error message came up on the display. However, with the normally used key the car would start with the fob blade inserted in the "transmitter pocket" slot in the steering wheel stalk. After moving and washing the car, the car again would not recognize proximity of the fob until it was placed in the transmitter pocket.

Information found on the web seemed to indicate the following issues might keep the fob from being recognized:
1. Most common - software glitch: Ignore and issue will resolve itself after an hour or two.
2. Next most common - Fob battery is weak or dead - replace fob battery to resolve.
3. Least common - Fob receiver is faulty - replace fob receiver to resolve.

This morning the normally used fob worked perfectly as it has for the past two years other than for a short period of time yesterday. Anyone suggestions from others who have experienced similar issues with GM push-to-start key fob errors is appreciated. I suspect it would be a good idea to replace both fob batteries.

Two Questions:

1. How often should the fob batteries be refreshed?
2. Does inactivity affect the lifespan of fob batteries, or the ability for the car to recognize the fob?

Thanks much,
Joe M in WV

 

[MrDRMorgan]

We had a fairly nice day Sunday so it seemed a great time to wash the recent winter crud off the used-to-be white 2015 Spark EV. I grabbed the seldom used spare fob for the car and was greeted with a "No remote detected, Place key in transmitter pocket" message on the DIC. I popped out the fob blade and "keyhole" cover on the steering stalk, then inserted the fob blade in the exposed slot but the No remote detected error remained.

I thought perhaps that particular fob battery was low, so ran back inside and retrieved the fob normally used, but the same error message came up on the display. However, with the normally used key the car would start with the fob blade inserted in the "transmitter pocket" slot in the steering wheel stalk. After moving and washing the car, the car again would not recognize proximity of the fob until it was placed in the transmitter pocket.

Information found on the web seemed to indicate the following issues might keep the fob from being recognized:
1. Most common - software glitch: Ignore and issue will resolve itself after an hour or two.
2. Next most common - Fob battery is weak or dead - replace fob battery to resolve.
3. Least common - Fob receiver is faulty - replace fob receiver to resolve.

This morning the normally used fob worked perfectly as it has for the past two years other than for a short period of time yesterday. Anyone suggestions from others who have experienced similar issues with GM push-to-start key fob errors is appreciated. I suspect it would be a good idea to replace both fob batteries.

Two Questions:

1. How often should the fob batteries be refreshed?
2. Does inactivity affect the lifespan of fob batteries, or the ability for the car to recognize the fob?

Thanks much,
Joe M in WV

I have received the "No remote detected" notice but it is because the FOB I was using was for my other Spark EV. However, I have had one notice appear on the screen telling me the FOB battery was low and needed to be replaced. I replaced the battery and everything was normal with no further notices.

 

[JMenacker]

DRM: Thanks for sharing info. No Fob Battery Low message was noted with either fob. The only messages displayed yesterday was No Remote Detected followed by Place Key in Transmitter Pocket (same messages with the rarely used fob and the normally used fob). However, the only the normally used fob would actually start the car - albeit with fob in the "transmitter pocket".

So far today the normally used fob worked without warnings or issues. I plan on picking up spare fob batteries (type CR 2012) soon, and reporting voltage of the existing fob batteries this evening.

Joe M in WV

 

[JMenacker]

I have received the "No remote detected" notice but it is because the FOB I was using was for my other Spark EV. However, I have had one notice appear on the screen telling me the FOB battery was low and needed to be replaced. I replaced the battery and everything was normal with no further notices.

Batteries are fine. Fobs are fine. Both 2015 Spark EV fob receivers are fine. It was wrong fob for the car that caused miscommunication. All good now.

DRM nailed it - thank you!

Regards and Happy Motoring,

Joe M in WV

 

[MrDRMorgan]

I have received the "No remote detected" notice but it is because the FOB I was using was for my other Spark EV. However, I have had one notice appear on the screen telling me the FOB battery was low and needed to be replaced. I replaced the battery and everything was normal with no further notices.

Batteries are fine. Fobs are fine. Both 2015 Spark EV fob receivers are fine. It was wrong fob for the car that caused miscommunication. All good now.

DRM nailed it - thank you!

Regards and Happy Motoring,

Joe M in WV

Joe, glad I could help. I have a 2014 Spark EV and a 2016 Spark EV and last year I also had a leased 2015 Spark EV. I had to put a sticker printed with the model year on each key FOB so I could get the right FOB with the right Spark EV.

 

[TerryDad2]

I'm getting the Place Key in Transmitter Pocket error even with the key in the transmitter pocket. I'm following the directions in the manual:
To start the vehicle:
1. Remove the rubber cap on the steering column. (Note: There is an illustration on page 2-7 pointing to the cap location on the column)
2. Extend the key blade and place the blade into the slot.
3. With the vehicle in P (Park) or N (Neutral), press the brake pedal and the POWER button on the central stack.

But all it does is continue to say Place Key in Transmitter Pocket.
Unfortunately we are down to just one FOB and we have tried replacing the battery in the FOB and the Spark won't recognize that the FOB is in the car or that it is in the Transmitter Pocket.

It was working until it got a bit wet. Since it is so old, the plastic on the buttons is cracked and let the water get right into the electronics. We let the FOB dry out but still no luck. Any suggestions? Does the Transmitter Pocket still rely on the electronics of the FOB?

 

[scrambler]

Just ran into a similar problem.
I only have one Spark and 2 keyfobs for it.

Keyfob did not open the car, so I went ahead and changed the battery, nothing
Got the spare keyfob, put a brand new battery in (both batteries tested at 3.2V) nothing

I can open and start the car with the key inserted, but basically both keyfobs have no action.

Based on that I am inclined to think the car receiver died. Before I call the dealer, does anyone have any other suggestions?

Thanks

 

[TheLondonBroiler]

Based on that I am inclined to think the car receiver died. Before I call the dealer, does anyone have any other suggestions?

Not trying to be a smart ass, make sure your batteries are not installed upside down. I'm not 100% certain, but I think there's a good possibility that there are two separate modules for keyless entry and push to start (they are definitely different frequencies). If I'm right, it's unlikely both modules crapped out for good, at the same time. At your own risk, you could always do a "reset" by disconnecting the 12v battery for a while and let residual power drain, then reconnect.

Hope this was of some help and don't be embarrassed if the batteries were installed wrong. We all do stupid things. Personal and subject appropriate example, I thought Efacec electrify America stations were manufactured by ABB until like two weeks ago. We can't all be right all the time.

 

[scrambler]

Thanks, but no the battery were installed right.

I bought a new set of batteries, and these worked.
The only difference is they were CR2032H instead of CR2032.

No idea why the other ones did not work, especially as they were putting out 3,2V.

 

[MrDRMorgan]

Thanks, but no the battery were installed right.

I bought a new set of batteries, and these worked.
The only difference is they were CR2032H instead of CR2032.

No idea why the other ones did not work, especially as they were putting out 3,2V.

I found this:
CR2032-H
"The “H” after CR2032 means the battery can be recharged. It also refers to the battery’s discharge rate. In this case, the “H” refers to a high discharge rate. The CR2032 also comes in medium (M) and low (L) discharge varieties.

These are only a few common examples of CR2032 battery suffixes. Most of the different suffixes refer to different battery terminal endings. Wherever these are found, the terminal ending should match an industry standard across all batteries, not just the CR2032."

 

[dmd3homeagain]

2014 Spark......OK, I'm having the same issue. Neither key fob works.....even with new batteries. I shouldn't have to search out a "h" battery (as posted above), I'm using the 2032 as specified (both check out at 3.23V). The originals were straight 2032's and used to work fine. Something's wrong with the car! Someone said there are two receivers and it's unlikely that both would go out. What could be wrong? The 12V battery checks out at 12.5V. What else could be wrong?

 

[TheLondonBroiler]

2014 Spark......OK, I'm having the same issue. Neither key fob works.....even with new batteries. I shouldn't have to search out a "h" battery (as posted above), I'm using the 2032 as specified (both check out at 3.23V). The originals were straight 2032's and used to work fine. Something's wrong with the car! Someone said there are two receivers and it's unlikely that both would go out. What could be wrong? The 12V battery checks out at 12.5V. What else could be wrong?

So I'm understanding correctly, you're not able to unlock the car (buttons don't work) nor can you start the car without the key in the slot?

My theory that there are two separate modules the remote operates, is just that, a theory. I do have a decade plus background in electronics, so I wouldn't say it if I didn't believe it to likely be the case, and while I'm wrong a fair amount, I'm right most of the time.

I posted a picture on the previous page showing the correct orientation of the battery in the remote, double check yours please. Also seen in that picture, the batteries I used were sunbeam, aka dollar tree, you don't need a special 2032.

 

[dmd3homeagain]

Thanks for responding....sorry for the delay...I've been away for a bit.
Yes, I'm well aware of the battery orientation and have tried multiple batteries in both remotes (key fobs) and even bought an additional new pack of Duracells....all with the same result: neither key works remotely, either using buttons or by rf proximity detection....have to put the key in the slot to get the car to do anything. Everything is completely manual at this point, with both remote keys. And I always have the "Replace Battery in Remote Key" message on the dash screen no matter which key is present (or both). I'm thinking the message will get "burned into" the dash display at this point. This message remains even if both remotes are well away from the car and in a shielded location (in the refrig to ensure no communication as a test). As I recall, in this later experiment, with no remote anywhere near the car, opening the door and looking at the dash the message should be, something like, "No Remote Key Detected".....not the "Replace Battery in Remote Key" that I am getting. This would seem to indicate an issue with the remote detection unit within the car.....it thinks a key is present, but with a low battery.....even when there is no remote anywhere near the car. So, if anyone has any ideas on further diagnostics it would be much appreciated. Much thanks.

 

[TheLondonBroiler]

if anyone has any ideas on further diagnostics it would be much appreciated. Much thanks.

Understood. I am not making recommendations, but have you "reset" the 12 volt system? This process entails disconnecting the 12 volt battery, letting it sit for a period of time in this state, touching the two vehicle terminal connectors together, and reconnecting them to the battery.

 

[dmd3homeagain]

Thanks, I haven't tried that. I understand disconnecting the 12v battery, but touching the terminals together? Is that really recommended? Yes, I see how that would discharge capacitors and other lingering voltage in various components, but it still seems a bit risky. I'm a bit reluctant. Is this a recommended Chevy service procedure?

Thanks.